Xpress
April 21 , 2005
Freshest bet in the West
Westboro's new Caffe Ventuno feeds an addiction for the true taste of Italy
I was already a huge fan of Il Negozio Nicastro in the Glebe when I heard the news of a second location opening in Westboro. I've become quite attached to the upscale Italian food shop, filled to the brim with fresh pastas, homemade sauces, every condiment and olive variety imaginable, imported espresso, olive oils, meats, cheeses and chocolates. All the necessities of well-fed life.
My fondness for this shop might be better described as an addiction; a week doesn't go by without a visit. I adore their homemade chicken parmigiana, a life-long affinity for water-packed tuna disappeared with one taste of tonno all'olio di oliva (Italian tuna in olive oil), and I'm utterly devoted to the supremely delicious, albeit not inexpensive, Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse, top-quality Parmesan cheese made from the milk of a rare breed of cows.
All this to say the three brothers behind Il Negozio Nicastro speak the language of good food-fluently. So I could not have been more thrilled to hear that their new location would share its space with their own Caffe Ventuno, a restaurant so named in honour of the port in Halifax where their father first arrived from Napoli in 1959.
On a recent Saturday evening (and after just four months in business) the place was packed. The fact that we reserved last-minute meant we weren't able to get a seat until 9:30 p.m., but having arrived early we found ourselves luxuriating at the bar, soaking up the convivial atmosphere with a glass of wine and a plate of crunchy fried calamari ($9).
It's easy to feel at home here. Windows running along the entire length of the room give it an open, airy feeling. At lunchtime the space is flooded with daylight; at night the sleek dining room is bathed in a warm glow thanks to the ingenious cloud-like light fixtures floating overhead. A partial wall of sawed-off logs near the entrance adds a hint of whimsy and another clever nod to nature.
While perusing the menu-pizza and pasta are the stars of this show-a basket of sliced baguette arrives accompanied by a whole head of soft roasted garlic-nice touch. The mixed salad ($5) is impressive: a colourful plate loaded with crunchy radicchio, red leaf and romaine lettuces, plump black olives, sweet peppers, tomatoes and cukes topped with plenty of fresh parsley and a tangy vinaigrette.
Our pasta selection ($14) continued the celebration of fresh veggies: Al dente tubes of penne mixed with fresh spinach and sautéed cubes of zucchini and eggplant were tossed in a superb tomato sauce with bits of bocconcini that created lovely little pockets of melted cheese throughout the dish. As someone who does not normally care for tomato sauce, this was a surprise hit.
Now, how to describe the pizza? Let's just say, as the last yummy bite disappeared, I half considered ordering another so that I could continue to contemplate its extraordinary texture-simultaneously soft and crisp, unbelievably thin and delicately topped with soft mounds of goat cheese, a sprinkling of mozzarella and parmesan, sun-dried tomatoes and a few dark green leaves of nutty arugula baked on top ($12).
We polished off this terrific meal with an expert cappuccino and two stellar desserts-a rich, tangy lemon tart and homemade cannoli stuffed with ultra-creamy ricotta cheese spiked with candied fruit and chocolate chips. Friendly service and a reasonable bill made our experience that much more delicious.
Looks like I've got a new Nicastro addiction.
CAFFE VENTUNO-IL NEGOZIO NICASTRO
1355 WELLINGTON STREET WEST, 729-9100
STARTERS $5-$9; PASTA/PIZZA $9-$15
