ELLE Canada
November 2005, 2005
GOING DUTCH
Picturesque Amsterdam's historical setting belies the city's liberal outlook and cutting-edge style.
by Shawna Wagman
Where:
Famous for its tree-lined canals, cosy coffee shops and red light district,
the Dutch capital is also a centre for cutting-edge architecture and design.
Your guide:
Fashion designer Analik Brouwer, 34, outfits Amsterdam’s artistic
avant-garde—body and soul. Her boutique and B & B showcase chic
clothing, updated vintage furniture, home accessories, art and photography.
The vibe:
"Very laid-back—it’s a relaxed city where you can do anything you want,"
says Brouwer of the city’s gezellig (friendly and informal)
atmosphere. "What makes it interesting is that it has two streams running
against each other—the old-style Amsterdam that’s quaint and a new modern
thing with lots of cool events like Amsterdam International Fashion Weeks in
January and July."
The big picture:
The centre of Amsterdam is compact and easy to get around on foot or—like
the locals—by bike. Don’t miss out on the Hermitage Amsterdam and Van Gogh
museums, Hortus Botanicus and Anne Frank’s house. You’ll no doubt be charmed
by the cobbled streets and colourful 17th-century townhouses, but don’t be
fooled into thinking this city is stuck in the past. The Dutch are happy to
embrace all things daring and different. The Docklands area—the Stedelijk
modern art museum’s temporary home—has had an extraordinary makeover, with
contemporary canal houses and housing developments, as well as the Bimhuis
jazz venue and the new wave-shaped cruise ship Passenger Terminal designed
by Larry Malcic.
Local style:
"Everybody’s really into fashion," says Brouwer, "The style used to be very
casual, with lots of second-hand clothing, but now the younger crowd have
made high street fashion the main thing. Girls wear H&M and Zara—it’s almost
a uniform of jeans and small jackets. The big names—Cartier, Gucci, Louis
Vuitton—are on P.C. Hooftstraat." Van Ravenstein—the only designer boutique
in Amsterdam that stocks clothing by local designers Viktor Horsting and
Rolf Snoeren—is on Keizersgracht. "But for me, the best place to shop is the
Nine Little Streets (De 9 Straatjes)," says Brouwer. Crossing the three main
canals, the lively neighbourhood is brimming with bakeries, galleries, cool
cafes and fashionable shops. "One of my favourites is Lady Day, a great
place for army jackets, sweaters, kimonos," says Brouwer of the famous
vintage store with designer stash from the 50s, 60s and 70s. "And I always
find really nice vintage pieces at Laura Dols—beautifully constructed woolen
winter coats, princess style dresses, as well as little handbags and track
suits."
What to bring:
"Good shoes for walking, an umbrella and—if you hire a car—lots of coins to
put in your parking meter. It costs a fortune if your car gets clamped!"
Analik’s Best List…
Market:
The Jordaan, a trendy former blue-collar neighbourhood, is home to one of
the best markets in town: Noordermarkt. On Monday mornings, bargain hunters
scour the open-air stalls for vintage fashion, furniture and fabric. Be sure
to stop at Cafe Winkel on the corner for a coffee and homemade Appeltaart
(Dutch apple pie).
Shops:
Amsterdam is a great place to pick up eclectic home furnishings and
one-of-a-kind designs. Part houseware-haven, part designer’s collective,
droog & Co. exhibits work by local and international designers. The best
part? It’s all for sale. Head off the beaten track to Pol’s Potten, a former
cocoa bean warehouse in the up-and-coming Eastern Docklands area that offers
everything from lacquered birdcages to candle holders. "It’s a big place
filled with all the things you want to have," says Brouwer, "I always buy
too much there!"
Cuisine:
Get a taste of Amsterdam’s multi-cultural vibe among the candles and
copper-topped tables of Mamouche, a trendy Moroccan restaurant with a French
twist. "There are all these old Moroccan guys in the kitchen—it’s great
classic food, but with a lighter, more modern edge." Another riff on
Parisian chic is Brasserie Harkema, an old cigar factory in the theatre
district that serves up unpretentious food like salads, steaks and grilled
fish to an ultra-hip crowd.
Hangout:
Amsterdam has a number of "concept clubs" with a bar, restaurant, lounge and
dance floor. Current hotspots are Rain with its minimalist Asian style, The
Mansion with its ostrich leather and gold leaf walls, and the
lime-and-viridian modern café-restaurant-nightclub, 11. "Club 11 is one of
my favourite places to watch the sun go down over the city from the
wraparound windows," says Brouwer. After dark, it becomes a nightclub
showcasing the hippest DJs, performers and video-art projects. Celebrities
like Pharrell Williams and Brad Pitt head for the swanky club Jimmy Woo. "On
Mondays they have jam sessions with young DJs," says Brouwer. If
talent-spotting is your scene, sit in the balcony of the city’s much-loved
music hall, The Paradiso, and watch the action on the dance floor. "It’s a
really charming place—an old church. If you’re lucky you can see a band
there just before they get really big," says Brouwer.
