Ottawa City
Dec. 2004/Jan. 2005
BITE: Hot Smoked Salmon
When I was a kid, I thought smoked salmon was one of the four major food groups. Sunday brunch was standard at my house and "lox" was always on the menu. But I wouldn't touch the stuff. Being a picky eater, I just couldn't understand why all the grown-ups were so excited to pile that slippery, orange fish on top of a perfectly good bagel and cream cheese. "You'll acquire a taste for it when you're older," they'd say.
I hate it when they're right, but I have to admit I've come to adore salmon. Any way will do. I like it pan seared, grilled with a sweet, sticky glaze, or in the buff rolled up in a blanket of sticky rice and nori. But it wasn't until I was introduced to the divine combination of smoked salmon draped over crème fraiche on blinis (miniature buckwheat pancakes), that I knew I had arrived.
Armed with my seasoned palate, I have discovered not all smoked salmon is created equal. This became clear as soon I laid eyes on the peppercorn speckled "hot smoked salmon" freshly made at the Pelican Fishery & Grill (1500 Bank St. 526-0995). As it turns out, "hot" refers neither to its current temperature nor its spiciness. This salmon is simply smoked on a hot grill, rather than the traditional cold curing method (although Pelican makes it that way too). That means you get the delicious mild smoky flavour, with a texture that is more like the firm, meaty filet that comes off the BBQ. It has become a staple in my house, appearing on everything from salads and pastas, to quiches and of course, the Sunday brunch. Eating a bagel, adorned just with cream cheese is, like, so immature.-- Shawna Wagman
