Ottawa City
Dec. 2004/Jan. 2005
BITE: Stoneface Dolly's Brown Bread
The first time I stepped into Stoneface Dolly's (479 Bronson Ave), my eyes were immediately drawn to a sign posted at the entrance. It contained two of my favourite words: homemade and bread. The sign explained that loaves of the restaurant's brown bread were available for take-out, while quantities last ($3.95). I took this as a very good sign, indeed. Someone behind that door shared my reverence for the modern-day dietary menace: carbohydrates. Bread for me, is like chocolate for many other women - an addiction, a passion. If it were up to me there'd be new traditions like a Valentine's Day baguette or a birthday brioche. After all, bread is love.
Once through the doors, I was treated to a satisfying spread of eggs, bacon, fruit, potatoes and coffee and soon eased into a state of post-brunch euphoria. But no amount of super-sated sluggishness could distract me from one thought: the bread. My request for a loaf with the bill was greeted with a knowing smile.
From the moment it arrived, still steaming, it surpassed my soaring expectations. First was the intoxicating scent, later revealed to be a simple dash of cinnamon and syrupy molasses. Then, the surprising size and weight. The huge, dense whole wheat loaf was clad in a gorgeous shiny caramely coat. And forgive the clichéd reference to the expression "bun in the oven" but without exaggeration - the heft of this loaf was reminiscent of a newborn baby. Last but not least, there was the unexpected flavour; equal parts wholesome and earthy, exotic and rich.
Like a family heirloom, this Maritime recipe had been passed down to the restaurant's owner Bob Russell when he took over the place. But as with any good recipe, there's a secret ingredient, the sweet taste of pride and pleasure with which the baker brings these precious bundles into the world each day. - Shawna Wagman
